Thank you for choosing one of Millworks’ click floating luxury vinyl products. Properly installed and cared for, your new
flooring will be easy to maintain and will keep its great look for years.
Acclimation of Material before Installation
To ensure a problem free installation, all areas where flooring will be installed should have a working heat and air
conditioning source operational a minimum of forty-eight (48) hours prior to installation and remain in operation during
and after installation. Conditions should be at the same temperature and humidity level expected during normal use
(between 65-85 degrees F with a relative humidity no greater than 65%). Ensure subfloor and flooring are fully
acclimated to these conditions for a minimum of 48 hours prior to installation. For best results, open the cartons at the
beginning of the acclimation period.
Millworks rigid core products are designed to require less acclimation when compared to traditional PVC based floating
floor. However, extreme differences in temperature and humidity between the flooring product and job site may result in
gapping, buckling or joints which are difficult to properly engage. Improper locking of the flooring may cause joints to be
distressed resulting in a “peaked” appearance, delamination due to ledging, separation of joints from normal
environmental temperature changes, cupping or side joint failures.
Pre-Installation Jobsite Requirements
Millworks Flooring cannot be held responsible for site conditions that do not conform to requirements as indicated in
these instructions including but exclusive to vapor transmission, moisture permeation, contaminated or damaged
Floating vinyl floors should be protected from direct sunlight and not exposed to direct sunlight for extended periods of
time. Excessive temperatures will cause the product to expand and buckle. Millworks recommends blinds, drapes,
window films or suitable window coverings in areas where there is a large exposure to direct sunlight.
It is the installer’s responsibility to examine the flooring prior to installation for color, finish, sheen and quality, and to
ensure that jobsite and subfloor meet the requirements of these instructions. Ensure adequate lighting for proper
inspection. If flooring is not deemed acceptable, contact your supplier immediately for resolution. Millworks Flooring
cannot be held responsible for flooring installed with visible defects.
Warning: If the existing resilient flooring covering is being removed, see current edition of the Resilient Floor
Covering Institute publications recommended work practices for removal of resilient floor coverings for instructions
on removing all resilient floor covering structures.
All subfloors must be clean, smooth and level to within 1/8” in 10 ft., and dry. Dust, scale, and loose particles must be
removed. The surface must be free of solvents, paint, grease, oil, wax, alkali, sealing or curing compounds, and any other
Millworks click floating floors are designed to “float” over the subfloor. Although Millworks rigid plank products are
more forgiving when installed over uneven subfloors, proper preparation of the subfloor is a critical part of a successful
installation. Roughness or unevenness of the subfloor may telegraph through to the flooring product resulting in an
unsightly surface and can cause excessive wear on high spots.
Concrete on or above grade must be free of moisture or high alkalinity. A concrete slab shall be cured a minimum of 90
days before performing moisture tests prior to the installation of your new flooring. The concrete may require additional
drying time dependent upon local environmental conditions.
All wood subfloors shall have at least 18” of well-ventilated space below. The ground under crawl spaces must be
covered with 6-mil polyethylene sheeting to reduce moisture vapor transmission. Wood floors must be double
construction or equivalent, with a minimum thickness of 1”, such as APA underlayment Grade Plywood without voids,
and with a fully sanded face.
Millworks cannot be held responsible for failure of the subfloor.
- Concrete/Screeds: All cracks and joints should be filled. The subfloor should have a moisture reading of less than
80% RH (Reference: ASTM F 2170-02 Standard Test Method for Determining Relative Humidity in Concrete Floor
Slabs Using in situ Probes).
- Wood Floors: Wood floors must be solid, flat and smooth with little flexibility. All loose boards must be firmly
- Existing Resilient Floors: Existing resilient tile and sheet vinyl floors must be in good condition and thoroughly
bonded to the structural floor. The exception is that any tile or sheet that is of a soft cushion construction must be
- Existing Ceramic Tile: Grout lines must be skim coated with a floor leveler. If you install the flooring over an existing
floor that has an embossing or grout line on it, we recommend you skim coat with a floor leveler. Check for any dips
or humps in the subfloor that can create a void or peak underneath the floor, the acceptable 1/8” in 10’ tolerance. If
found, please fill in and level the subfloor with embossing leveler. For high spots, grind down the peak or simply
knock them off with a hammer and chisel and fill in the holes.
Radiant Heat: Subfloors should be operating for at least 3 weeks prior to installation to drive out moisture and calibrate
temperature settings. Maximum operating temperature should never exceed 85°F. Radiant heat components must be
a minimum of 1/2” away from the flooring.
Do not secure individual planks of the flooring to the subfloor as it is designed to be a floating floor. All doorjambs
should be undercut and cabinets cannot be installed on top of the flooring. Wall moldings and transition strips should
be installed at any exposed plank edges but should not be fastened through the planks.
The maximum room size suggested is limited to 30 linear feet with perimeter expansion space of 5/16”. For installations
larger than 900 square feet or runs longer than 30 linear feet, control joints must be installed with a minimum of 5/16”
gap between the installed molding.
Do not install Millworks flooring over expansion joints.
- First, determine the orientation of the flooring in the area. Typically for plank products, the flooring runs the
length of the room. There may be exceptions since it is all a matter of preference.
- To avoid narrow plank widths or short plank lengths near the walls/doors, it is important to do some preplanning. Using the width of the room, calculate how many full boards will fit into the area and how much space
remains that will need to be covered by partial planks. Divide the remaining space by two to calculate the width
of the partial planks. Do the same along the length.
- Note that if the first row of planks does not need to be trimmed in width, it will be necessary to cut off the
unsupported tongue so that a clean, solid edge is toward the wall.
- 5/16” expansion gaps should be planned for and maintained from the wall during the installation. This will allow
space for the natural expansion and contraction of the planks.
- The planks should be installed from left to right. From the top left corner of the room, put the first plank in
place so that both the head and side seam grooves are exposed.
- Install the second plank in the first row by laying the short-end tongue onto the previously installed plank
groove. Upon assuring that the planks are aligned, apply pressure to join the two planks together. A soft, white
No. 2 rubber mallet may be used to fasten the end tongue and grooves together.
- To start the second row, cut a plank that is at least 6” shorter than the first plank in the first row (you may use
the left over from the last plank of the first row). Then install this first plank by inserting the long side tongue at
a low angle into the groove of the plank in the first row.
- To install the remaining planks in the second row, first align the long edge tongue into the groove of the
previous row while making sure the short-edge tongue is laying on the short=edge groove of the previous plank.
Angle the long edge tongue into the plank in the row above and lock it together.
- It is critical to keep these two rows straight and square, as they are the “foundation” for the rest of the
installation. Check for squareness and straightness often.
- The remaining planks can be installed in the room using the same technique. Make sure the required expansion
gaps are maintained against all fixed vertical parts (such as walls, doors, cabinets etc).
- The planks can be cut easily with a utility knife, just score the top of the plank and snap the plank in two.
In the unlikely event that a plank is damaged for whatever reason, the simplest method is to disconnect the plank
carefully (protecting the tongue and groove edges) until the damaged plank can be removed. Then replace the damaged
plank with a new one and reassemble the disconnected planks. This typically works for planks that are closest to the
two long walls of a room. For damaged planks that are not close to the perimeter, you may have to remove the
damaged planks and insert new pieces without the short and long end grooves.
Floor Maintenance and Protection
- Furniture should be moved onto the newly installed floor using an appliance hand truck over hardboard
- Avoid exposure to long periods of direct sunlight. Close blinds or drapes during peak sunlight hours. Floor
covering subjected to excessive heat and light is subject to thermal degradation. Use appropriate precautions to
minimize potential effects on the floor covering.
- Oil or petroleum-based products can result in surface staining. Do not track asphalt-driveway sealer or
automobile oil drips onto the vinyl floor covering.
- Caster wheeled chairs should have wide, rubber casters. Protective mats are required under office chairs.
- Use non-staining mats. Rubber may discolor the floor.
- Frequently moved furniture should be equipped with felt pads to avoid scratching the floor. Heavy furniture and
appliances should be equipped with non-staining large surface floor protectors. Furniture with castors or wheels must be easy swiveling, large surface non-staining and suitable for resilient floors. Do NOT use ball type castors
as they can damage the floor.
- Use floor protectors under furniture.
- Use walk off mats at entrances to prevent dirt and grit from being tracked on to the floor
- Sweep or vacuum the floor regularly to remove loose dirt. Do NOT use vacuums that use a beater bar or turn
beater bar off.
- Do NOT use electric brooms with hard plastic bottoms with no padding.
- Clean up spills immediately.
- Damp mop as needed using clean water and a diluted floor cleaner suitable for Luxury Vinyl. Do NOT use harsh
cleaners or chemicals on the floor. Do NOT use abrasive scrubbing tools. Do NOT use detergents, abrasive
cleaners or “mop and shine” products.
- Vinyl flooring, like other types of smooth floors, may become slippery when wet. Allow time for floor to dry after
cleaning. Immediately wipe up wet areas from spills, foreign substances or wet feet.